Beaujolais… Why do we love it?

Mike Mortensen

Have you ever tasted wines from there? If not, then you have cheated yourself of a good experience (we thought)… I will not hide the fact that both Berndt and I (Mike) have a preference for Pinot Noir/Spätburgunder, which may have something to say here. There may be a comparison that is worth considering.

Pinot Noir has a lovely freshness in its acidity, the immediate fruit, structure that appeals to us IF IT IS MADE PROPERLY…. Drop the overdone barrel work, which rubs off so much on the wine that you are pulled away from what the grape is all about – good fruit that harmonizes with a freshness and mineral notes (Spätburgunder from Germany) and the earthy and complex expression (Pinot Noir from Burgundy and Oregon). What we like about Pinot Noir is that it is so terroir-emphasized, because it absorbs surrounding aspects in the form of soil, geographical location and surrounding scents, etc. That is why it is so special to us.

Gamay, which is what we are talking about, has some of the same similarities here, except that it is not found in as many places around the world as Pinot Noir does. There is a little in Canada and a few other places besides Beaujolais, but that is all – here it is original and knows its home town. If you mention Gamay or Macération Carbonique out in the big wine world, you will most likely be met with “ahh Beaujolais” – however, I would say that it is WAY too overlooked compared to what it should be. Because… you get incredibly lovely and fruity wine, which costs far less than what Burgundy wines cost. Of course, these are also good wines that we hold very dear, BUT in some areas it has run away with prestige awards in certain parts of Burgundy.

In Beaujolais, in some municipalities you get more edge and structure in the wine, but in the vast majority of Beaujolais you will experience incredibly juicy and easy-drinking wines that almost “burst” in the mouth – and if it is made well, some producers can manage them quite nicely with a little used, large barrels. It is not unusual for you to experience a slightly herbal, mineral and red fruit note, which in some cases is touched by a little violet… What not to like?

Cru Morgon – We have a preference for it because of the good depth and complexity they often produce naturally – still supple and juicy, as it should be. Light spicy notes followed by fresh cherries. We have tasted several good examples of Morgon wines with perfectly integrated barrel ageing – some can easily handle it.

Cru Chiroubles – Expect fresher and lighter versions from here, it tastes really good in our opinion. You won’t find wine with the same fruitiness and juiciness as here, but without it becoming flat and boring like a boring mass-produced Pinot Noir – they are out there, sorry to say. Chiroubles can shine on its lightness and freshness with bright red fruit like raspberries, however, with the right treatment it can also get some quite nice mineral notes from the granite, which characterizes the beautiful landscape of Beaujolais.

I'm sure we'll see a lot more of this area in general – not because it's part of Burgundy, but because it has its own style of wine.

WE LOVE BEAUJOLAIS – BUT ALSO BURGUNDY!


Beaujolais… Hvorfor er vi vilde med det?
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